Hard candy – free crochet slipper pattern

Hello!

I’m very excited to bring you this free crochet slipper pattern!

It’s no secret I love to design crochet sock patterns… and not at all surprising that when I noticed the nylon content in Furls Whims Merino DK that I jumped at the chance to design crochet slippers with it.

Why is nylon important when making socks (or slippers)? Nylon ensures that your project will last. It lends the fiber more strength for harder wear items such as socks and slippers.

What’s so great about Z-twist yarn?

Is the tip of your hook actual gold? Yes, yes it is.

Enjoy !

Julie xx

Hard candy – free crochet slipper pattern

You may be wondering why you’d pay for a pattern you can get for free? Simply put: because you love me. I get more from pattern sales, than I do from advertising. Or because you want the pattern stored in you Ravelry library forever, with the rest of your pattern collection.

Yarn: Furls Whims Merino DK -100 g (182 yds/166 m)

• Main colour: 2 skeins Charcoal (A),
• Contrast colours: 1 skein Pink (B), 1 skein Teal (C)  

Hook: Furls Odyssey G+/4.5 mm

Notions: Stitch markers, yarn needle

Gauge: 7.5 sc and 8 rounds = 2”/5 cm   

Available sizes: Small (W 6-7) Medium (W 8-9) Large (W 10-11)

Stitch guide:

• blo… back loop only
• ch… chain
• ea… each
• PM… place marker
• RS… right side
• sc… single crochet
• sc2tog… single crochet 2 together
• sk… skip
• sl st… slip stitch
• st… stitch 
• WS… wrong side

Notes:

• Yarn is held DOUBLE throughout.
• Crochet is not very elastic horizontally.
• Crochet loosely and, if needed, add a round (or two) of increases at toes. Make the necessary changes for these at the heel.
• Toes, foot, heel gusset, leg and border are worked in a spiral.
• Heel turn is worked from a short row tab.
• Change colour at last yarn over of last st of round.     
• Carry unused yarn inside your project.  
• On foot, 1^st st of each round is a sl st-blo to help colour change be slightly less visible. Work this stitch loosely as it is worked into in the next round.

INSTRUCTIONS

TOES

With A (see notes), ch 11

• Round 1 (RS). Sc in 2^nd ch from hook and in next 9, DO NOT TURN, working under sc just made, sc in 10 chs, ending right before 1st sc of round. 20 sts  
• Round 2. 2 sc in 1^st , sc in next 8, (2 sc in next) twice, sc in next 8, 2 sc in last. 24 sts  
• Round 3. 2 sc in 1^st , sc in next 10, (2 sc in next) twice, sc in next 10, 2 sc in last. 28 sts  
• Round 4. 2 sc in 1^st , sc in next 13, 2 sc in next, sc in next 13. 30 sts  
• Rounds 5-6 (5-7, 5-7). Sc in ea st around. At the end of last round, change to B.

FOOT

• Rounds 7-25 (8-28, 8-30). Sl st-blo in 1^st, sc-blo in ea st around, change to next colour in sequence. At the end of last round, work until you are at the side of the foot, change to A.
  • Colour sequence: A, C, A, B.

HEEL

• Row 1 (RS). Ch 1, sc-blo in 1^st and in next 14, turn. 15 sts
  • PM in 16^th and 30^th sts for top of foot – ie unworked sts
• Rows 2-6 (2-8, 2-8). Ch 1, sc in 1^st and in ea st across, turn.

• Short Row 7 (9, 9) (RS). Ch1, sc in 1^st and in next 9, leave remaining stitches unworked, turn. 10 sts
• Short Row 8 (10, 10). Ch1, sc in 1^st and in next 4, leave remaining stitches unworked, turn. 5 sts

• Row 9 (11, 11). Ch 1, sc in 1^st and in next 3, sc2tog over last and 1st unworked st from Short Row 7 (9, 9), sc in next, turn. 6 sts
• Row 10 (12, 12). Ch 1, sc in 1^st and in next 4, sc2tog over last and 1st unworked st from Short Row 8 (10, 10), sc in next, turn. 7 sts
• Row 11 (13, 13). Ch 1, sc in 1^st and in next 5, sc2tog over last and 1st unworked st from Short Row 7 (9, 9), sc in next, turn. 8 sts
• Row 12 (14, 14). Ch 1, sc in 1^st and in next 6, sc2tog over last and 1st unworked st from Short Row 8 (10, 10), sc in next, turn. 9 sts
• Row 13 (15, 15). Ch 1, sc in 1^st and in next 7, sc2tog over last and 1st unworked st from Short Row 7 (9, 9), turn. 9 sts
• Row 14 (16, 16). Ch 1, sc in 1^st and in next 7, sc2tog over last and 1st unworked st from Short Row 8 (10, 10), turn. 9 sts

Gusset (g)

• Round g1. sc in 1^st and next 8, sc in 5 (7, 7) row ends, sc2tog over last row end and st before M, sc-blo in 15 top sts (from M to M), sc2tog over st after M and 1^st row end, sc in next 5 (7, 7) row ends. 36 (40, 40) sts
• Round g2. sc in 1^st and next 12 (14, 14), sc2tog over next 2, sc-blo in 15 top sts, sc2tog over next 2, sc in next 4 (6, 6). 34 (38, 38) sts
• Round g3. sc in 1^st and next 11 (13, 13), sc2tog over next 2, sc-blo in 15 top sts, sc2tog over next 2, sc in next 3 (5, 5). 32 (36, 36) sts
• Round g4. sc in 1^st and next 10 (12, 12), sc2tog over next 2, sc-blo in 15 top sts, sc2tog over next 2, sc in next 2 (4, 4). 30 (34, 34) sts      

Small only: proceed with LEG.

Medium and Large only:

• Round g5. sc in 1^st and next – (11, 11), sc2tog over next 2, sc-blo in 15 top sts, sc2tog over next 2, sc in next 3. – (32, 32) sts

LEG

At the end of last gusset round, sc in each st until you are at the side of the foot, sl st in next st. Rounds start here from this point.

• Rounds 26-33 (29-38, 31-41). sc-blo in ea st around. At the end of last round, change to B (Left foot) or C (Right foot).
• Round 34 (39, 42). sc-blo in ea st around, sl st to 1^st st. Fasten off and weave in all ends.

Block lightly if desired.